Tuesday, May 19, 2015

The Draw of Denali

We had a wonderful nights sleep helped by melatonin. Rising early we took a brisk walk (Alise saw several new bird species) by Cook's Inlet before boarding the motorcoach to Denali State Park.

Anchorage sits between two mountain ranges and we headed north toward Mt Denali which is set in the mountains near where both ranges join at the Alaska Range.  The ride took us through Wasila, home of Sarah Palin and where the Ititerode begins - it ends 1049 miles north in Nome!  Along the way we passed a moose feeding on bushes at the top of a ridge close to the road.  Unfortunately, it was not a good place to stop so we were by before anyone could snap a photo.

There were only a few small towns and mostly they were just a sign on the highway.  It was very isolated with a few general stores and auto repair places.  No Walmarts or big box stores except for one Lowes as we left Anchorage.  

The trip lasted three hours and passing over many bridges with rippling streams we kept hoping to see bear or another moose, but no such luck.  The snow capped mountains appeared closer and closer until finally we went over a high bridge over a deep river and then made a sharp turn up the long drive to the Mount McKinley Lodge.  It was about 20 miles from the mountain range and about 40 miles from Denali.

A word about the "The Mountain".  "Mount McKinley" is the name of the mountain given by the US Government and commonly used in the "lower 48".  In Alaska it is known as Denali.  It is the largest mountain in the US and known here as the largest in the world.  They can claim this because the range is so close to sea level.  We climbed today from Anchorage which is at sea level to a little less than 2000 feet.  The Mountain base begins at 2000 feet and soars to 20,320 feet.  Although other mountains are higher, Denali has the highest ascent for climbers.

The mountain has remained elusive to us all day, which apparantly is typical.  Although it is pretty clear here it is covered in misty clouds and only occasionally the outline peaks out a little.  However, the mountains surrounding it are stunning and the hope of getting a clear view keeps us out on the terraces staring at the mountain glimpsing an outline of the right slope and then it is obscurred and then the peak appears - so elusive and yet so close!  We could see it yesterday from Anchorage and did not realize how extraordinary it was to have such a clear view!


But the air is remarkably clear.  It's chilly but not cold, ideal for hiking and walking.  Joe and Catherine walked several trails today around the lodge, singing as we went because we were told to make noise so that we wouldn't startle the bears.  For once Joe didn't complain about my singing as we belted out together "I can't give you anything but love, baby!".  Happily the noise - or perhaps the singing - keep the bears away.

Alise avoided the singing altogether by taking a horseback riding tour on some trails in the area.  There was no opportunity for bird watching or photos on her tour but she thoroughly enjoyed the trip and and peaceful isolation.

The lodge is lovely and rustic.  The food is good, not gourmet but plenty of fresh salmon, Alaska crab and mountain grown blueberries on the menu, so lots to enjoy.

It's now nine pm and the sun is still high in the sky - it won't set until 11:05 this evening and sunrise will be at 4:48 AM.  We're told how welcome this is after the winter when the sun rises about 11 AM and sets by 3 PM.  Hard to imagine such incredible differences between seasons.

Alise and Catherine are going to meet and get in the hot tub!  After an active day we're need to relax...

The 22 hour day


Monday morning we awake at 2:30 to make our 5:15 flight. Between the hotel beds and the excitement for the upcoming journey, we got little sleep.  After an uneventful check-in and boarding, we found ourselves on the red-eye to Chicago.  We had some anxiety about the flight from Chicago to Anchorage because we were unable to check-in either online or in Philly due to an inability for American Airlines to communicate with Alaska Airlines.  But with a sigh of relief, we were able to get our boarding passes at the gate 15 minutes before boarding time.

The flight to Anchorage was completely packed. How many of these people, we wondered, are heading towards a cruise ship?  Up until the last hour and half the scenery was pretty boring - just miles and miles of agriculture and little ponds with some scattered snow coverage. Then we started to hit the foothills. The Canadian Rockies? I assume so. My Canadian geography is rocky at best (see what I did there?).


About an hour from Anchorage the mountains turned snowy and huge!  Breath-taking scenery took over - snow capped peaks, teal blue frozen lakes, seemingly tiny icebergs floating in rivers, snow melt waterfalls, and distant peaks.  Finally at 1pm (5pm Eastern time) we landed in Anchorage.  Amazingly as we arrived, we were able to see Mt McKinley in the distance.  We were told how fortunate we were to see this. Well it certainly was spectacular. Anchorage itself is an interesting mix of 1950's city and mountain town, with spectacular mountain ranges surrounding it everywhere you look.

Princess met us at baggage claim and swept us off to The Hotel Captain Cook. Unfortunately our rooms wouldn't be ready for another hour.  *Sigh* Not surprisingly, we were beginning to fade. Mom was the first to succumb. "I must have a decent meal NOW".  Happily prior research on TripAdvisor helped us find a wonderful wine bar close to the hotel, "Crush". So the first crisis was adverted with a light meal of empanadas and meatballs. Tea instead of wine was the wiser choice. Walking back to the hotel refreshed we checked in.

The next to fall was Joe. Puttering around in a fog Catherine suggested he take a nap and she and Alise went for a walk. Alise bird watched by the harbor and Catherine sat and took in the view of the mountains. Returning to the hotel to find Joe refreshed we went for a drink and snack on the 20th floor.

If we could make it to 10:30 Anchorage time we'd be up for 24 hours...  Too bad, this time Alise hit the wall. Sitting at the bar she was too tired to respond to the fellow hitting on her...   Oh, well, we all hit the sack at 8:30 Alaska time and dreamed of adventures in Denali.